David Bowie loved its couscous. Norman Reedus hung out there. It put avocado toast on the map. Thirty years later, and with a new book honoring it, Cafe Gitane is drawing a fresh crowd. Luc Lévy, ...

"Could I bring you a bottle of Badoit?" the waiter at Gitane asked by way of greeting. "No tap water would be just fine," I replied. I realized I hadn't had a similar question about bottled water for ...